California, known for its stunning coastline and surf-worthy waves, is experiencing a significant shift in its maritime landscape. Recent research reveals that wave heights along California’s coast have been steadily increasing. But beneath the thrill lies a challenge for the state, as it presents the need for a proactive approach to safeguard California’s climate-vulnerable shoreline.
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Surfers’ Paradise
Nestled between the azure expanse of the Pacific Ocean and the rugged allure of its coastal landscape, California stands as a global icon of surf culture. Renowned for its sun-drenched beaches, consistent swells, and a laid-back lifestyle that echoes the rhythm of the waves, the Golden State has earned its reputation as a surfer’s paradise. From the legendary breaks of Malibu to the powerful waves of Mavericks, California’s coastline is a playground for wave enthusiasts seeking the thrill of riding the perfect wave. However, beneath the sunlit surface and the laughter of surfers echoing along the shore, a less visible but formidable force is silently reshaping the state’s relationship with its maritime gem – a force manifested in the rising wave heights that hint at a changing climate narrative along California’s coast.
The Changing Face of California’s Waves
The study, conducted by Peter Bromirski, researcher emeritus at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, and published in August 2023 in the Journal of Geophysical Research, analyzed nearly a century’s worth of data, unveiling a noteworthy trend. Since 1969, the average height of winter waves has grown by about a foot, accompanied by an increase in the number of storm events producing waves exceeding 13 feet (4 meters) in height. This upward trajectory aligns with the rise in global temperatures, attributed largely to the burning of fossil fuels.
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The study draws attention to the correlation between the increase in wave heights and the surge in global temperatures. Since 1970, carbon dioxide levels, a key contributor to global warming, have risen by about 90%. The consequences of this warming trend are becoming evident not only in rising wave heights but also in the broader context of climate change.
Impacts on California’s Climate-Vulnerable Coast
While the prospect of larger waves may excite surfers, the consequences for California’s coastline are concerning. The state’s vulnerability to climate change is exacerbated by warmer ocean temperatures and freshwater inflows from melting ice caps. Sea levels along California’s 1,200-mile (1,931-kilometer) coastline have risen approximately 8 inches (20.32cm) in the last century, according to the California Coastal Commission. Without substantial reductions in greenhouse gas emissions, this rise could escalate to feet in the coming decades.
The Threat to California’s Beaches and Infrastructure
As sea levels continue to rise, federal estimates predict that nearly three-quarters of California’s picturesque beaches could be eroded by the turn of the century. The California’s Legislative Analyst’s Office highlights the potential financial impact, indicating that existing property worth US$8-10 billion may be underwater within the next few decades, with an additional $6-10 billion at risk during high tides.
Bromirski emphasizes that higher waves, combined with elevated sea levels, intensify the impact on vulnerable sea cliffs and increase the risk of coastal flooding. Coastal infrastructure is particularly susceptible, raising concerns about the structural integrity of piers, seafront properties, and other essential facilities along the coastline.
Linking Climate Change to Increased Storm Activity
Bromirski’s study contributes to a growing body of research indicating a direct correlation between human-induced climate change and heightened storm activity in the Northern Pacific Ocean. The main source of California’s winter swells is experiencing increased energy in ocean waves due to climate change, as demonstrated by a 2019 study from the University of California, Santa Cruz.
Global Trends in Wave Power
A broader perspective on climate change and wave dynamics is provided by a 2021 study conducted by an international team of researchers. The research suggests that climate change is causing a global increase in wave power, particularly in the Southern Hemisphere. The warming of global oceans intensifies wind circulation, resulting in stronger winds that, in turn, drive higher waves.
Seismic Data: Uncovering Historical Wave Patterns
To understand the historical changes in wave heights, Bromirski utilized seismic records dating back to 1931. By detecting seismic signals generated by wave-to-wave interactions, he gained insights into wave height variations over an extended period. This approach was crucial since traditional wave height measurements along the West Coast only began in 1980, postdating the rapid escalation of greenhouse gas emissions.
Protecting California’s Coastline
California’s changing wave heights stand as a tangible manifestation of the broader impacts of climate change. As the world grapples with the consequences of global warming, with 2023 being named the hottest year in humankind history on record, this study serves as a stark reminder that even recreational phenomena like surfing are not immune to environmental shifts. The challenge now lies in adopting sustainable practices and mitigating further damage to California’s coastline, preserving its natural beauty, and protecting the communities that call it home.
Featured image: Eric Saunders/Unsplash
